We left England one grey, mizzling, bleak cold day in November and landed in Fort Worth, Texas, blue skies and sunshine in abundance. The car hire company was badly managed and very busy so unfortunately my son, husband and I lost three hours of our lives waiting in a queue with other disgruntled customers. Finally, cases loaded, satnav set, we headed for our hotel. Greeted with a glass of fizz we got the lift up to our rooms. No unpacking necessary because we would be on our way to Big Bend National Park the following morning
After some Google searching we found a restuarant for our first taste of a Texan steak. It didn’t disappoint! The meal was superb and, lying in bed that night, fed and watered, I slept like a baby!
After a walk around an area of unnatural beauty where houses must have cost many millions of dollars, we loaded the car and headed for Odessa. Now my idea of Texas, after watching umpteen cowboy movies, was a mixture of cattle ranches filled with longhorns, occasional rocky outcrops and miles of flat desert. Never, in my wildest dreams, did I imagine mile after mile after mile of nodding donkeys with not a longhorn in sight! The scientific explanation of a nodding donkey is ‘the overground drive for a submersible pump in a borehole’. I’m having problems explaining what a nodding donkey looks like. So is Google, but here goes. It looks like a donkey’s head at the end of a long shaft balancing on an a frame. The head moves slowly up and down. We saw masses, all different sizes, some mobile, some rusted steel wrecks.
We arrived in Odessa early evening. We walked across a strip of wasteland to get to our restuarant. The next morning the wasteland was completely submerged in water. I’d slept through torrential rain which luckily blew over by the time we continued on our journey.
I’d vaguely heard the story about aliens landing in the desert in New Mexico many years ago. Apparently they landed just outside Roswell, our next stop. A large flying saucer welcomed us into the town, a good photo opportunity. Driving down the Main Street we passed a cannabis drive through which was an eye-opener. Cars drove up to the window as if it was Mc Donald’s and bought their bags of pot. Cannabis is banned in Texas but not New Mexico. The cars we saw waiting in the queue all had Texan number plates. Just a few yards from the drive through was a big sign offering guns for cash. Perhaps this was a way of getting money for dope?
We visited the alien museum. I left still very sceptical. There were impressive models of aliens lying in incubators. They looked like foetuses, quite disturbing. Their faces were small yet they had large, bulbous heads and slits for eyes and mouths. I saw no visible signs of ears. Their bodies were short and emaciated with large hands and feet. Apparently five were killed and only one survived the crash. Those who saw them were sworn to secrecy so that the media couldn’t get hold of the story and cause world wide panic.
Leaving Roswell the next day we headed for Fort Davis. On our way we stopped at the Carlsbad Caves, 700 feet below the ground. They are found in the Chihuahuan Desert in New Mexico. They are cunsidered by some to be the eighth wonder of the world. It’s fascinating to think that the those magnificent stalactites, stalagmites and flowstone began their formation from just a single drop of water 250 million years ago. These caves are very unusual in that they were formed from sulphuric acid instead of carbonic acid! We were warned that the acoustics in the caves were amazing. The staff could hear what every visitor was saying so we were advised to whisper. My son and I kept on forgetting so must have caused some amusement when we described sights as we walked along. We both have vivid imaginations!
Arriving at Fort Davis we had booked a lecture at the observatory. Warned to dress warmly we made our way to the arena that evening, miles away from any light pollution. The moon wasn’t visible and not a cloud in sight. The lecturer introduced himself and started a laser show of stars and constellations. That meant looking up at the sky with my neck periodically locking. Very painful, but not as painful as the extreme cold seeping into my bones, producing involuntary spasms. Eventually I had to curl up in a ball, hearing and seeing nothing! When the lecture was over I had to uncurl myself and stand up. This was easier said that done. Still shaking, I had developed cramps in my arms and legs. Movement became a huge challenge. My husband, who had been standing up, fascinated throughout the evening, had to help me by holding both my hands and easing me gently off the stone bench. I have never been so could in my whole entire life! As if that wasn’t enough. I still had to shuffle along to look through five telescopes. I stood in queues, shivering, trying to show interest when peering up at some or other planet or star. All I wanted was to get into the car with the heater on maximum and thaw out. We ended the evening with a round trip of forty miles to the only restuarant open at 9:00 pm on a Sunday night. All they could offer me was a chicken salad! At least the glass of Shiraz was warm!
The next day we left Fort Davis, getting closer to Big Bend. We had stayed in a hotel which had rooms above a saloon. I bet our room could tell some stories! Would have found us very boring! Walking along the main street we passed a hotel called the Soda Fountain with three bullet holes in the window! We were now just over a hundred miles from the National Park and our next adventure.
The landscape had changed again but still not as I had imagined. No more nodding donkeys but still no cattle. And no cowboys! The terrain was quite mountainous, the sky, a brilliant blue and it felt quite warm. We were definitely driving through semi desert and very close to Mexico. Great excitement when I spotted the Rio Grande! The name of my all time favourite John Wayne movie. I should really get out more! We went for a walk, crossed over the river which was barely a stream and almost trod on a giant tarantula! Very impressive! We walked into a canyon and I have a beautiful photo of the golden sun shining down on a mountain at the exit.
We managed a number of hikes in Big Bend with, fortunately, no further wild life excitement and, gratefully, no snakes! The scenery at times was magnificent, helped by the ever present blue sky. I have a photo of a roadrunner which was smaller than I expected and which caused much excitement with some of the people walking behind us! We spent a couple of nights in Terlingua and then headed back to Fort Worth, Dallas, a round trip of two thousand miles.
My Dallas highlight was a rodeo show and the John Wayne museum. The rodeo was huge fun watching brave young men riding bucking broncos and wild bulls, I finally saw longhorns being herded down the street with cowboys on either side expertly twirling their lassos.
The museum was unusual. They had the stuffed horse, Trigger, who appeared in 188 Roy Roger’s TV programmes and movies. Bullet, the German shepherd, who portrayed Roy Roger’s dog, was also there. Buttermilk, the horse, used by Roy Roger’s wife, Dale Evan’s, completed the exhibition.
We had a wonderful time and I could have filled many more pages with our adventures. America is such a vast country and it’s fortunate that we visit my son each year and spend time in so many amazing places. We’re already planning our trip for next year! I feel another adventure coming on ………👠