Alaska is a place where nature doesnāt whisper, it roars! Beautiful snow topped mountains stand majestically etched, on a good day, against a cloudless blue sky. It was where three generations of our family spent eight days without losing Wi-Fi, patience or anyoneās sense of humour! A feat within itself!
As the only woman in the party I noticed a quiet complexity between the three men. It wasnāt just about different tastes in sightseeing or meals, it was about navigating identity, memory and legacy. All this mostly non verbal, but creating the differing dynamics of our party. The grandfather brought persecutive. Heād seen it all before, the ambition, the mistakes, the growing pains. My son, in the middle of lifeās demands, bridged the generations. My grandson was fast becoming his own person by testing ideas and quietly watching the dynamics between the two older men.
Anchorage was our base. We rented an airbnb with a hot tub overlooking a field and a wood. We were warned not to leave food out to entice bears and to stay away from moose. We chose our bedrooms, the oldies taking the en-suite. We settled in that first night and went out for a meal. The two youngsters sat in the hot tub on our return nursing beers and hoping to catch sight of wild life. My husband and I had gained eight hours but were exhausted so escaped to our room. The fun was going to start the next day and we wanted to be rested and ready for the challenge.
My son carried the quiet weight of responsibility. He had booked the trip and done a lot of research into the best sights to visit and had chosen our car. It was a four wheel drive with a huge engine and, to the men, a satisfying amount of power and torque! He had just sold his muscle car, a Dodge Shaker and had withdrawal symptoms so appreciated the deafening roar of the engine. We were herded into the car, too early for my liking, but our first trip was to Beluga Point to spot the whales taking advantage of the salmon run. We drove along Turnagain Arm, with cliffs on one side and silvery, sparking water on the other. It was chilly but the sky was a brilliant blue and I sat quietly in the back of the car, enjoying the banter, totally relaxed. We didnāt see any whales, despite the hopeful signs and the name! It was low tide with a sharp wind but I was dressed appropriately. We stood together for a while, saying little but eyes scanning the water for a sign of a fin.
We visited the Alaskan Wildlife Conservation Centre the next day, just off the Seaward Highway, nestled between towering peaks and a wide glacial plain. It was wet and cold and probably not the right time to wander around in the open. Huddled up in many layers, holding an umbrella, I ventured out of the warm car. Itās not a zoo but a place where injured or orphaned animals are brought to live out their lives in the wild, as much as captivity allows. The musk ox enclosure was my favourite. They looked like prehistoric creatures with heavy coats and heavier stares! They made me chuckle as they trudged through the mud like old men needing to be somewhere but not really sure where!
My grandson was fascinated with the lynx, he loves cats. The wood bison apparently had been brought back from extinction which had taken a few decades. I saw moose and caribou which were luckily behind a fence, the best place to see them! The rain became heavier. My husband and son were determined to see the bears. My grandson and I headed back to the car where he drove to the bear enclosure then got out to join his Dad and Granddad. I never did see the bears. Iāve not lost any sleep over that. I preferred seeing the photos in the warmth of the car!
A little south of Anchorage, past the beautiful jagged cliffs and sparkling wide waters of the Turnagain Arms, is a town called Girdwood. Itās a quiet ski town although, it being August, the snow had long gone! My sonās itinerary for that morning was a ride in the Alyeska Aerial Tram. He wanted the thrill of the view, gliding above the spruce forest, past rocky outcrops and left over snow patches clinging stubbornly to the north-facing slopes. I wanted to avoid the hike up which my husband and I would have done if we had been on our own!
At the top the view was spectacular! Looking out over the valley and the distant glaciers I soaked it all in. I stayed back letting the boys walk up to the lookout platform. To be honest that chilly wind and the thin mountain air had me puffing and panting for breath so was happy to take my time and just soak in the atmosphere. Looking back as I write this blog it reminds me how special that day felt, being together as a family. Standing in a place that vast and that beautiful was anything but ordinary!
We spent an afternoon at the Eluktna Lake and Recreational Park. Itās a stunning glacial lake surrounded by forested mountains. That is where I rode an awful, unbalanced bicycle along seriously rough terrain, the most difficult, challenging, embarrassing experience Iāve had in years! It took me ages and a lot of patience from my son, who doggedly persevered explaining how to set off with my right foot on the pedal, press on the left pedal with my left foot and just keep pedalling. So simple yet a Herculean task for me. The bike kept veering to the left! I had to try and avoid pot holes worse than those on the Park and huge stones. Not lacking determination, but with sky high blood pressure and heart pumping madly, I managed to pedal for a few metres before slamming on breaks and resetting the handlebars. But I didnāt fall or break any nails!
We spent a night at a Denali Lodge ready to catch a bus up through the heart of the National Park. It was a five and a half hour drive from Anchorage but we wanted to see the Denali mountain so chose the scenic route. Wrong move! One road after another was closed for repairs and the weather had set in with cloud and fog covering any chance of a view! My son had begun to feel unwell so we stopped the detour and headed straight for the lodge.
An early start the next morning found us in the bus ready to travel into the heart of the wild. We expected to see many dangerous animals from the comfort of our seats so settled down to enjoy the experience. My son didnāt look well and had not joined us for the previous eveningās meal. I was concerned. His son, however, was concerned about catching his Dadās lurgi! He kept as far away from his Dad as possible!
No private vehicles are allowed past the fifteen mile point so that was where the adventure began. This bus trip is apparently a front row seat into one of North Americaās greatest wild frontiers. Itās a moving wildlife safari, a geology lesson and a meditation retreat according to the leaflet we picked up at the lodge. We would pass open tundra and alpine meadows, sweeping mountain ranges and braided streams. Weād see moose, caribou, grizzly bears and wolves in their natural habitat. All we saw was a grouse, a few caribou and two grizzly bears about a mile away. Binoculars would have been good! That was it!
We managed to do a short walk along the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail but the weather was not conducive to outside activities. We spent three nights in a lovely house, another Airbnb property, bordering a golf course. We played cards and spent time relaxing. My sonās condition was not improving and the last two days he spent trying to sleep himself better. We later discovered that he had covid and pneumonia.
I came to Alaska hoping for great views. I left with something far better, precious memories of time spent with my husband, son and grandson. That canāt be measured in money or in miles. š
Jenny Burrell 