River cruises are definitely one of my favourite holidays. However, giant monsters of steel and glass, with their own eco systems, that glide arrogantly through oceans carrying thousands of passengers, definitely is not!
River boats, by comparison, are built for proximity to the shore line. You can admire the landscape and appreciate the architecture and culture. They are quieter, significantly smaller, slower and more refined. And the water beneath is a lost shallower! Cruise ships focus on the ship as the destination whereas river boats focus on the journey and the places explored along the way.
A riverboat has a different rhythm, a subtler vibe. It offers comfort, luxury and perspective. You sail past castles, vineyards and little villages and watch locals fishing, swimming, or having picnics. You become part of the fabric of the places you visit. It’s not always how far or how fast you travel before you can stop and unwind. I found this slower pace from day one far more relaxing.
My husband and I have just returned from a riverboat journey on the Rhône in Provence. We met my sister and brother in law, who live in Australia, so hadn’t seen them for a while. We looked forward to spending ten glorious days catching up on family news, enjoying delicious wines and meals and steeping ourselves in French history.
Waking up on that first morning was glorious although I had to set the alarm because breakfast was served between 7:00 am and 8:30 am. I’m not a morning person, it was Saturday and I had hoped for a lie-in! I was also looking forward to the ship sailing but our first excursion was a bus ride to Beaune, back for lunch and only then would the journey begin!
Looking out from our cabin window as the boat drifted slowly along was a wonderful experience. As we glided over the water I could feel that gentle rhythm and noticed how the colours of the river mirrored the sky. On either side of the bank the Rhone revealed a living landscape. We floated past rows of vineyards clinging to sunlit hills, sleepy stone villages nestled beneath terracotta rooftops and centuries old chateaux watching over the river like timeless sentinels. We passed fields of lavender and sunflowers, their heads worshipping the sun, swaying gently in the breeze. The air was calm, clean, laced with birdsong and the distant bells from riverside chapels. A sensory perfection!
Every day we were offered excursions. By day two the heatwave had swept in and temperatures had begun to steadily climb. By early afternoon the temperature had reached 36C. We met a wonderful couple from Essex so our dining table expanded from four to six. We sat in the corner, near the kitchen and soon built up a good rapport with a couple of the waiters. They quickly learnt our preferences and favourite wines! Showing a little kindness and interest went a long way towards a richer, more personalised dining experience.
Avignon was a wonderful village where history, art and atmosphere blended seamlessly. I felt as if I was walking through a medieval tapestry. We were given a guided tour of the Pope’s Palace. Unfortunately the guide bombarded us with information and by then the temperature was close to 40C and very uncomfortable. There is only so much my brain can absorb before I suffer from ‘information overload’. I could admire the fact that it was Europe’s largest Gothic palace and the centre of Christianity in the early 1300’s. However, I could have googled the rest in the cool, air-conditioned cabin on my return. That was a long and hot two hours! The famous Pont-Saint-Benezet bridge, partially ruined in medieval times, was well worth a visit despite having to brave that intense heat. The views of the city walls, river and surrounding countryside were spectacular.
Our trip to the Camargue the next day will remain with me for a long time. It was 42C. We drove through this unique, untamed landscape, part wild delta, part cultural heartland. We saw vast wetlands, salt flats, rice paddies, lagoons and pastures. The pink flamingoes in the nature park were stunning along with other water birds in their natural habitat. We were given time to explore on our own and my husband, ever the adventurer, decided, after being told not to wander off piste, to do exactly that! I went with him to keep an eye on the limited time we were allotted and to chivvy him up. All in vain as the map wasn’t to scale so we held up the coach, much to my embarrassment and the annoyance of some passengers! I cannot leave out the Camargue white horses, or the black bulls grazing on the flat plains. It was a place of contrast, harsh and soft, sunburnt, windswept, solitary yet, for me, quite soulful
The city of Arles, on the banks of the river, is where ancient and modern blend seamlessly together. Once the Roman provincial capital, the amphitheatre, although in ruins, is still used for concerts and bullfights. Van Gogh spent time there, creating more than 300 artworks, the most famous being the Yellow House, which still remains, now sadly empty as the last owners were made bankrupt by a huge tax bill. In October 1888 Van Gogh painted his iconic ‘Bedroom in Arles’. It’s not just a painting of a room, it’s a portrait of peace, order and a deep yearning for rest and stability. (Thank you Google)!
Our last trip was a journey to Orange and a winery in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape region. A favourite wine of ours this was going to be the highlight of our cruise. The wine tasting didn’t disappoint. I wasn’t too impressed with the white wine but the two reds were delicious!
We visited some lovely places and thoroughly enjoyed our stay on the boat but the most memorable time of the holiday was definitely the people. Meeting up with my sister and brother in law was so special and we’ve made some wonderful memories. We’ll remain in contact with our new friends from Essex. It is just down the road …….
From cheerful toasts, we had a few of those, to laughter around the dinner table, every day was richer because of those we shared it with. In many ways we became a floating family. The calm of the river, the rhythmic hum of the boat, the excitement of passing through umpteen locks and the serene beauty of the scenery were all amplified because we were with close family and friends. It was a shared experience, relaxing, informative and great fun. 👠
Jenny Burrell 