When we arrived at our accommodation the night before, unbeknown to us, the key had been left under the mat. The place was in darkness and only after frantic knocking was the door flung open by a rude middle aged man who berated us for disturbing him! Apologies from the management staff and blame heaped on everyone from the travel agent in the U.K. to the gormless taxi driver was the outcome of my exhausted tirade the following morning! After breakfast we collected our new hired car, loaded the suitcases and, with permission from the landlady, parked in her driveway. We walked into Christchurch on a warm, sunny Sunday morning.
Slowly I began to relax, soaking up the ambiance of a city lovingly restored after the devastating earthquakes of 2011. We eventually found our way to the entrance of the botanical gardens. Majestic old trees, which had stood the test of time, towered high above beautifully manicured lawns and stunning flower beds! Families punted on the river Avon or relaxed on benches or blankets dotted around the extensive gardens. It was all very tranquil and I would have defied even the most stressed person (usually me!) not to automatically begin to unwind!
Our next stop was Lake Tekapo. Our accommodation near its shores had spectacular views of the Southern Alps! We headed down Highway 8, very ‘chilled’ and looking forward to our next adventure. The journey was uneventful and we arrived late afternoon, still no rain but bitterly cold. The view from our balcony of the turquoise-blue lake nestling in the valley was stunning. The mountain range covered in snow with luminous shades of blues, greys and brilliant sparkling white etched against a cloudless sky and formed a magical backdrop. We donned warm clothes, (my well-worn puffer jacket and jeans), and headed for its shores.
We found a restaurant and had a delicious meal washed down with a couple of glasses of delicious wine. The light was fading as we headed back outside where were met by a howling gale before the heavens opened! I hadn’t brought a handbag or umbrella so the mile back to our accommodation was horrendous! The biting cold and battering rain made walking very difficult and I clung onto my husband’s hand as we fought our way through the storm, visibility almost non existent!
The next morning we climbed a hill to see the view of the lake from above and the surrounding landscape. As we reached the top the wind was so strong and so freezing cold that I had to sit down and huddle into a ball to avoid being blown away! Once more my husband had to take on the role of super hero and help me down the exposed path, the biting cold numbing my hands and feet, making movement even more laborious! I didn’t go quietly! I have never been accused of being a martyr! It was one of the most unpleasant walks I have ever undertaken and also one of the coldest! The car soon warmed up but it took a long time for me to thaw out!
Back on Highway 8 and feeling human again we headed down to Queenstown. Once more our accommodation was of a high standard and we arranged for our breakfast to be left outside our room at 5:30 am the next morning. We had to meet the coach at 6:30 am on an arranged trip to Milford Sound.
The driver / guide was great. There were only eleven of us on the coach so each had a double seat to spread out and relax. We passed by the magnificent mountain range called the ‘Remarkables’, drove through lush farmland and on to the Fjordland National Park. We past the beautiful Mirror Lakes and it was then that I noticed the change in the weather. The sky was becoming very heavy. The few snowflakes, which had gracefully floated outside the window, had begun to thicken and form a menacing blanket blocking our view. We headed for the Homer Tunnel and our guide was confident that the snow would soon abate and we’d reach Milford Sound.
But, alas, we never did see the series of uniquely shaped rocks and potholes formed by the Cleddau River rushing into a dark abyss! We didn’t board a small boutique boat and view the stunning snow-tipped mountains or cruise past rugged cliffs covered in the magnificent native rainforest. We never saw seals, dolphins or penguins in the fjord fed by powerful waterfalls that tumbled hundreds of metres down into the valley below!
We had to turn around and drive back to Queenstown! Too much snow and too little time to clear it! The once jolly guide concentrated on the drive back and we were left to stare forlornly out of the window in a hushed silence. As we approached the city the snow gradually turned to rain. But our luck hadn’t changed! After the first few passengers were dropped off the door of the coach jammed and we had to walk about two miles back to our room! Once more cold, wet and also very hungry!
But our last day in Queenstown was dry and slightly warmer. We drove around the coast, walked along the lake, had a super meal and awoke bright and early the next morning to start the last leg of our journey. Franz Josef Glacier here we come!👠
Jenny Burrell 